[s434.photobucket.com]

Gary

Or - here it is embedded ...



Gary

Hey Joebill ....

I see your name there. I took your advice. The shoulder has been going down hill fast. I get injections next Wed. Right now ... the arm is in a sling for the evening.

that should help your rotator cuff

also, simple as it seems...ice the shoulder down for 20 minutes at a time

if it's good enough for $10 million/yr MLB pitchers....

I always tell patients it's cheap and has no side effects...pretty much cant beat that!

Yeah ... that's 900 RPMs ... not fps. Do NOT try to run your lathe spindle that fast.

Nice video Gary, Sorry it was a bear to get edited.

What brand quick tool change system is that? Did you replace your tool holder on your Enco? I'm at the point of having to adjust my bit upwards and it seems shimming is the only answer with the original setup.

I know you know this, but be careful with that sling in the shop with the machinery whipping around at 900 or even 90 RPM.

So, I was tightening my part in my lathe when I realized the power was still on.

[www.liveleak.com]

Nothing is this fool proof.

Enjoyed the video,

Kent

Hi Kent,

Well, I tied it back with my neck tie .... is that OK? hahah,

No ... no slings in the shop.

Thanks.

Glad you liked the movie. The "Exodus" was less trouble to film and produce.

They call the dovetail set up "Phase II". It's the way to go. Otherwise, yes ... you use shims. But ... that doesn't have to be a real pain. You just need about five different thicknesses of straps. One or combo of two usually does it. The Phase II system is far better. You can buy a bunch of tool carriers. You let the tool set up in one, grab another to change quickly. Of course ... takes a few bucks to buy it all. You need a bout 5 or 7 carriers. So, I'm using the "came with it" version for now.

The guy in the video disproves evolution. They HAVE survived, until this day.

Gary

Kent,

Are you looking on:

[littlemachineshop.com]

Forget what size lathe you have.

Lon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2011 05:57AM by Bigbore.

Gary,

Great video.

How much are you taking off per pass? Is that a reservoir cap?

A good tip I read was to use a dead center to align the cutting tool to the center of the work piece else you'll leave a button in the center.

Lon



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/11/2011 06:00AM by Bigbore.

Hi Lon,

Yes - it is the reservoir end, with internal valve seat, and integral quick fill geometry.

The greater majority of gun parts, will be made close to the chuck, supported only by the chuck - for access. If you are extending very far, from the lathe chuck, you can use a center. A "live" center will always be better, if you have one. That's one with a bearing in it, so the point rotates with the workpc., rather than scrubbing against it. On many operations, the center will be in the way. On many set-ups, you might do several operations with the pc. clamped in the chuck, without moving it. Such as ... turn outside, bore inside, bore thru, ream inside, establish valve seat, ream valve seat. Even thread outside. All of these could be done, without removing the pc. from the chuck once. But they require a lot of tool and cutter changes. Speed changes, and threading gear changes.

On this operation, I was removing about 30-40 thousandth at a time. Remove much more, and the stress on the chuck clamping area goes way up. Then, any tool catch, would not only break the bit ... but wrench the workpc. from the chuck ... bending and ruining it. By only removing lighter cuts, the lathe spindle can be running much faster. Carriage movement can be much faster. Far smoother surface is left. And the result is five or six passes take no longer, real time, that one huge hogging cut that risks failure.

Gary

Gary,

Sorry, I wasn't clear or complete. That's a first.


The deadcenter is to be used only for tool alignment at setup and then removed from the chuck.

Lon

Hello Lon,

Just some observations from my experience:

Tool will cut better if it's slightly above the line of center.

Tool tip will break, trying to remove the last little tiny center projection. At the point in travel, where the tool crosses the dead center of the rotating workpc., the direction on the tip will immediately be in two directions at once. Down, on the near side of center, and up on the far side of center. Counter-rotation in the space of a few thousandths .... snap on any finely sharpened too. If you are perfectly in control enough, and patient enough, and like to sharpen tool bits ... then you can try for that last little button. It's been my experience, that most parts will need a hole in the center, or that little tiddy can be brushed off with a sanding belt, during the sanding and polishing process.

For what it's worth. Mine's surely not the only way. But I've made a few buckets of shavings. haha.

Gary

Still working thru that group of intakes.

Still have several more steps to do on most of them.

Gary

Talking to a guy today. Topic of the intakes.

Just for conversation. Here's what they are for:

Top top of the last pic ..... Chameleons, Hossette pistol, Ranger Mag. Legacy model

Middle Row: Yukons. Perhaps a Justice. And a Nitro.

Bottom Row: Victory, Heritage, Woodsman, Appaloosa.

I hate to run the bluing shop, without having a nice lot of parts to contribute to the sets that are building. I decided it was time to bring these forward.

Gary