High Carbon Tool Steels can often be tempered by color. This is the Traditional Bladesmithing method. The Stainless Tool Steel I’ve thoroughly tested also shows temper colors. If you are able to carefully control the applied tempering heat (and stop said heat as well as confining said heat), them you’ll get this.



Note the rich Gold Color which indicates a great cutting edge hardness. Note also the rich blue which indicates a Spring Temper.

Tempering a double edged dagger for a Military Man, is an honor and a responsibility. It may need to be depended upon one day. The thickest steel is the rib between two edges. Applying sufficient heat there WITHOUT letting too much heat build on the edges (which would soften them too much) is the skill.

So; note the contrast between the gold and the silver of Gary L’s Blade (farther along) and the Stainless Channel Case.

Gary

Wow that's a lot work on the table there . I never thought about the dagger blade tempering . There's a fine job done . How thick Is the dagger in the center ? 3/8" or so just wondered. That would take a lot of pin point heat for sure . I Can't wait to see the handle your choosing on the dagger . I heard that a lot of military guyz are getting or issued a tomahawk / hatchet with a spear now too . A very useful tool for work and combat I would think .

Thanks
Kurt



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2018 01:20AM by kurt wag.

Hi Kurt,

Thanks my friend. That is a lot of work.

Dagger is .200” on the spine. It’s quite strong.

You are right about the pin point heat. I’ve been adjusting that flame for 45 years. It’s a trick to get the mix and pressure right. I’m sure you know all about that.

Thanks Kurt
Gary

Gary,

There are some fantastic videos on YouTube that show the process. If you search for "Bladesmith testing" you should find some. A couple points I found interesting were the need to balance the areas of hardness to produce a sharp edge that will hold an edge and yet a blade that will not break if bent. As you mentioned previously, there is a LOT of technique and experience required to make a good blade with the different metals used.

Lon



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/29/2018 06:45PM by Bigbore.

That’s all true Lon.

There isn’t a “one size” solution to heat treat. The “purpose” of the blade will dictate the prime goals. Cite for example something like an actual battlefield blade. There wouldn’t be any ribbons given for “edge holding” if the blade broke in half under extreme stress. And, if you made the entire blade and tang to the perfect edge holding hardness ..., it probably WOULD break in half under extreme stress. What would be required would be a good edge, THEN a softer middle ground for toughness ..... THEN a Spring Temper (or softer) for the blade spine. THEN a soft Spring Temper for the tang where it joins the blade width proper.

Once again .... because nobody wants the handle to snap off the blade. And nobody wants the pointy two inches to break off. Nobody cares if .... during the battle, the blade bends 20 degrees and only returns to within 5 degrees of straight. You just don’t want a two piece or three piece Combat or Bush Knife. So: a good Smith will make things for the intended use. Now anything will lay in a drawer. A Master Smith will make a knife that will most likely lay in a drawer .... but wouldn’t have to.

Gary

Hello Gary,

Very cool how you show the tempering. Takes a lot to master temper with certain steels. That will be quite the dagger, must be an honor making something for a military man

Keep it up!

Pedro