These are simply built, but glued together well, and should give good service. I haven't had a lot of good drawer space before, so I'm pleased with this.



I tried to do a lousy job but the wood is pretty and the whole thing turned out great! Haha. I'm in trouble with Kelly, 'cause she wants them in the house. Hehe.



I band sawed some drawer pulls from Yupon Holly. Kicked the flats over off Axis from the cut out about 30 degrees so it presents a nice finger tip recess pull.



The pine was a 1 by 8 from Lowes which showed a neat spalted bird's eye pattern. I used one board for the full length of all four drawers. Attached it with pulls. Marked the joints. Then took it off and cut the four drawer faces apart. Makes the grain follow thru. All simple things that just make the unit so much more pleasing to use. Most of the time a design with character doesn't take much longer then a butt ugly design. .

Don't give me grief for finishing the drawer fronts. That's a brush on lacquer sanding sealer. Dries very fast. Will keep the wood from warping as it's brushed both sides. And it will keep the drawer fronts from becoming filthy and staining. (It was Kelly's idea - blame her ... hahah .... and then they all look pretty and I'm busted. hahaha.

Now this unit goes up in the studio shop under the workbench top.

Thanks for reading. Oh, I also cut half of that second shooting lane.

Gary



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/19/2012 05:23AM by barnespneumatic.

Gary,

Interesting tips that someone who doesn't have cabinetry experience may not think of, e.g., using the sam piece of wood for all the drawer faces. As far as sealing them, smart IMO. We knew that was Kelly.

I was curious about leaving the work bench by the roll-up door. I'll assume you use that entrance as a nice large main shop entrance?

Lon

Hi Lon,

There ya go - more tips then you can file away from reading here.

Regarding the bench and the door saga. Gee - I do forget that there are STILL people out there WITHOUT a tractor and bucket lift WITH pallet fork attachments. hahahahah.. That bench can go anywhere I want it in a few minutes. Outside is one quick option if needed. However; it WILL have roller wheels on it to shuttle back and forth over a couple of times it's length if needed.

Hey Lon - I went to load some pics last evening ... And ... computer tells me my hard drive is full! Evidently I have about 120 Gigs of pictures on this unit. That's what you call a "well documented career". hahah. I have half a Terabyte external ...... in Maryland ... yes. So - guess it's Thumb Drive City for now.

Merry Christmas Lon.

Gary

Transferred a few Gigs onto a Thumb Drive. That worked to free up the internal.

Gosh - 16 GIG Thumb Drive was like $15 at Wally World. Used to be twice that for about half a Gig. The 32 GIGS would have been only $19 but they were all gone. Bummer. Yeah - I know - on-line .... hahahah.

I love using star-drive screws, I wish they'd just go to those and quit using phillips and flat-head.

Hi Sean,

Yeah - they are nice. Of course - they couple them WITH:

1). Self drilling feature. Works pretty well in framing materials. I's still predrill good stuff.
2). Exterior coatings. Those are real good. Of course - if you slip the star drive or chip the coating (which IS tough) they you get some rust there. The screws are very rust resistent though.

Star Drive with self drilling and coatings ...means they are expensive. Phillips in black or the dichromatic dip are dirt cheap.

And - of course - you have to have a bucket full of T-20 and T-25 star drive bits cause they are seldom anywhere near the screws or the drill. hahaha.

Gary

Looks like those drawers will be just the ticket Gary. A while back we went for drawers in our kitchen instead of shelves. Only trouble is that in an earthquake, they all want to slide right out and show off their contents!
Cheers
Neil

Hi Garry, I noticed you have the growth rings on the drawer fronts concave out. I ask this because this is how I alway's present the grain with drawers, on table tops and such I present the growth rings concave up. As timber dry's out(even timber that we think is dry will move a little once cut/opened up) the growth rings want to streighten out, however the upper face of a top or outward facing surface want's to dry quicker causing the opposite effect. Presenting the growth rings in this way helps to compensate for the growth rings desire to streighten out.
Nice job, Danny.

Yeah, funny how you never have the right bit for the hardware at hand. My old Makita cordless drill used to have two little clips that would hold spare bits, missing from the new model. Now I have to search the laundry hamper to find them in yesterdays shirt pocket.

I was burning through # 2 phillips + bits on my deck and a contractor told me to try impact tips.
Only went through one more bit on the rest of the deck for the little extra money the're sure worth it.
Also tried those Pro Grabit screw extractors and they really made it easy to back out the screws that I stripped the heads on.

Joe

Good Tip Joe,

Decent tools make all the difference. Phillips tools can cause you a ton of aggrivation - especially if your tool ever slips even once. Then it's compromised. Most "kits" of tool bits are made of cheese. Good tip on the impact quality grade. I'll look for them.

Gary