I got a chance to use a bunch of my tools. Haha. Welder, grinders, cut off saw, and many more. I'd never finished bracing my forks and got one all twisted up in a snow blade, while moving it. It sprung the mounting arm. So I bent it back with the tractor and welded in an angle bracket and the blade cleats.

Bunch of grit and smoke and noise. Love it. After being stuck without tools and being a year with them all scattered around - it's great to find enough of them to actually do something.

That led to me welding up an attachment to plow some trenches for electric and water lines, and to cut roots. The tractor has proven to be a very versitle tool.

Gary



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/05/2013 05:40PM by barnespneumatic.

Looks like a fun time but it ain't Nuthin till you make blood squirt out from under your fingernail! That's what happened while tapping some holes 7/8-9 through 1" plate. Maybe you can help me fix this tap! Guess I shouldn't have put so much BACK into it .hehe

Thanks
Kurt

Ah Kurt - sounds painful.

My secret - if you get the air off of it - it will help the pain. Super Glue the nail - and any cut too. Pinch the skin together and glue it. If it's deep - lay a few fibers of cotton across the wound first.

About your tap - I think that's toast. We could make a new one - but since it's standard - better order one.

So - that must be a large scale item you are working on. A 7/8" bolt and Inch plate isn't for your lawn mower ...

Hey - it's SHRIMP NITE!!!!

But - boy - the rain is pouring down. Gonna have to make a run for the truck.

Gary

Yeah . . . cotton thread across the Super Glued wound . . . works wonders, for you AND the lucky folks assisting with your field dressing.

-- Jim

Toughened you up Jim. hahaah.

Good training for Civil War Re-enactments.

It was also amazing - the way you turned all green like that. Quite a striking effect that I'd have appreciated more if it were not for the spurting sections of the wounds that didn't want to close.

Ah - those razor edged safety sheilds ... always good for laughs ...



Gary

Kurt,
Looks like you have all the pieces, you're just 90 degrees out of phase. A little crazy glue or JB weld ought to fix that right up!

Gary,

Those forks have more use since build than most airguns ever get! I'll bet you could make carved sets for gentlemen farmers that would fetch a fair price!

Yes Jerry - I remember you helped me weld up those forks before we made our now famous run - "South Bound and Down".

They are fine. Better then new.

Come on down and I'll let you move some pallets and stuff. hahha.

Gary

Hey Kurt, I'll bet you could re-use that one. Just melt it down to liquid and start over.

Not exactly light-duty stuff, I take it you're not a jeweler or a watchmaker....

Yes there's probably no hope in repairing that tap and I almost always buy two of everything but in this case I could only find a two flute tap and I've always been partial to the 4 fluters . But I am embarrassed to say that I am a professional at getting out the pieces . I wasn't but three or for good threads into the plate when the tap broke . I haven't used to superglue yet but I am a big fan of a duct tape like red green .And no Sean I'm not to watch builder sometimes I wish I was !! I'm just a 50 year old iron worker who had to retire to the shop and am reduced to a controlled environment where I get to play with the tools . Some are bigger than that escavator you been running but I always did like playing in the dirt I don't get to do that much anymore !.Well the bleeding has stopped I better get back to work.And in case anybody was wondering yes I had the correct drill for 75 to 80 percent thread 49/64 (.765) even though a couple 1000 larger sure would have made it easy

Thanks
Kurt



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/06/2013 08:08AM by kurt wag.

Hi Kurt,

40 years of tapping threads has proven to me, beyond question, that the MAKERS of the taps are the ones who specify the drill sizes (which are always too small). The charts will always keep a new tap just on the edge of snapping, from the first hole. They never account for the small amount of natural swagging which will take place in any tapped hole. The theory is that the tap CUTS perfectly and ONLY cuts. In reality, the threads being created always displace a bit of material inward, closing the hole. That will add a nasty pinch if its not allowed for. Tapping 0-80 and 00-90 threads is a real test on the heart, especially in hard metals. There's an old knifemaker's saying: "There are NO athiests tapping 00-90 threads in titanium".

I have a sight assembly I started to make a long time back. Guess there are quite a few of those "someday" projects on the shelves. Well, for the elevation screw I had to have extra extra fine threads, for fine adjustment. And I wanted it to have enough mass to be durable. I made a 3/16" 90 tap or something close for the job. Worked great. The elevation screw and it's nut, are butter.

Gary

So...when you say "75 to 80 percent thread", does that refer to the hole diameter or what?

The only thing I've ever threaded on a regular basis is iron pipe thread on plumbing, and that's pretty standard since most consumer stuff only uses a couple of sizes.

It's the surface area of the threads touching eachother .(male-female) contact . In my experience I have used inspection gages called go/no go gages for quality controlling
I have done lots of threading and always hated aluminum because of the gaulding but never did anything harder than stainless steel. Just reasently worked with a very expensive material very hard called hastalloy. No tapping involved though. Wow I do have a little left over and was thinking of making a knife but from what I read you need carbon in it and its mostly nickle,titanium ! What u think Gary.how bout some free advice ,it does get tool hardened .Something.I have been seeing a lot of it past is roll forming threads they don't even cut but push the metal into threads! Not something I would use on a breach plug on an HPA gun . They are very weak and would fail . interrupted taps are user friendly

Thanks
Kurt



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 06/06/2013 07:24PM by kurt wag.

Hi Kurt,

Spiral Taps are the way to go. I prefer them unless I'm really desperate. They cut far cleaner, with less pressure required.

I'm not familiar with "Hastalloy". I can look up the specs.

If it work hardens, then you might cold forge an edge after machining or grinding. Worst case - might be a decent kitchen knife. Nickle and Titanium should be pretty stainless. Without around 6 tenths or one percent of carbon though - it "shouldn't" make a good knife or tool. You need something over 4 tenths of one percent to harden at all. But - work hardening can and does occur.

There ya go - ya get what ya pay for. hahaha.

Gary

Looked up Hastalloy in Wikipedia, looks like it's mostly nickle. Also seems that the same guy that patented it also invented stellite and a bunch of other variants of super-alloys back in the late 1800s.

Busy guy, Elwood Hayes.

yeah it's pretty weird stuff but super duper expensive ! and acts just like stainless steel maybe like a 316L. Mostly have to tig weld and kinda violent when you punch holes in it and shear! It didn't crack when you press brake it but we did send it out to get laser burned into parts.measure twice cut once . We even ,had them cut us little slivers to use as filler rod so our base metal would match are filler metal That's what they spec out .

Thanks
Kurt



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/07/2013 09:55PM by kurt wag.

Hi Kurt.

Bet the boss was nervous using that stuff in your press break. ooopps! Big ole crack thru the frame. ;(

I know some guys did make blades from Stellite. I never have. You'll have to go for it Kurt! If its violent to shear, it must be fairly hard. I'd try cold hammer forging an edge from about 1/8" down to about 50 thou. And then sharpen it.

Send the old man a sliver. I've got nothing to do. . Kidding!!!!
Gary

Ooh, ooh!

Can I get a whole airgun built out of the stuff?

Kidding! Just kidding!

I'll leave now...

Well Gary the average thickness of the hastalloy was .190-.192 which is pretty thin compared to what were used to .I have an old German set of rollers that was made in the 1950?that will roll 1-1/2"x 6-0" long.Now that is moving some molecules. We are steel workers so the smallest we ever deal with is1/4" so gage steel LOOKS tame ! No tin knockers here.I have always liked stainless steel so it was kinda fun for a while. Thanks for advise on cold forging .I have never done it but I do have a couple of anvils and a beater or two. I bought a book a couple years back on blacksmithing so maybe now is the time.Sean I did pack up enough hastalloy to send to Gary for a small hand gun but you would have to get in line I'm not sure if the ledger is open at this time.

Thanks
Kurt

Oh yeah - I had a death wish just yesterday - when I looked up and realized the move isn't finished. I said - "Hey - why don't I OPEN THE LEDGER for some hastalloy pistols!!!

I'll just wrap that .192" sheet into barrels - draw it - Hey - maybe I'll mill rifling in the flat stock and THEN wrap it - won't have to get inside that little hole that way!!!

Well - thanks for the help guys! hehehe

Gary

Ah heck, why not skip right past super-alloys and right into metallo-ceramics or carbon-carbon? You've got your diamond-single-point tooling inventory unpacked already, don't you?

That box is probably stacked back behind the Electrical Discharge Machining center, or maybe it's over behind the water-jet cutter. Hard to tell what with all the CNC milling cabinets in the way cluttering things up.