Hello All,

I am hoping to build a decent shooting table before summer is over. I have a few ideas and pulled a few from online. Anyone care to comment on what they find works the best for accuracy, comfort.

What techniques have been incorporated, what works, what doesn't?

Hopefully we can get some discussion going.... all are welcomed to participate.





Again, pictures I pulled are from the net for ideas (google images). I personally like the boat seat on the top right bench. Some welding would be required but looks sturdy.Third picture down on right side also looks like a nice idea. Right and left handed shooters could both use.

I would like to hinge the center though to fold in half for transport if it could be made sturdy enough when in use.

Accuracy is earned at the range. Proper setup, breathing, mental focus and many other variables. I find less coffee helps too! Again, please share what works for you and perhaps we can all learn something!

PS - I have ordered 22 and 25 Cal pellets from Mr. Hollowpoint to try out soon as I can get back on my feet. Things are going really well with my recovery from minor surgery.

Have a great week!

Pedro



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/20/2014 02:03AM by pedrog.

Hello Pedro,

A few things come to mind.

I have had poor results from Concrete shooting benches. I've been members of clubs which had both wooden and concrete benches. I've shot new guns from the concrete bench - and just couldn't dial them in. Chased all sorts of ideas - mystery remained. Then, something sparked an idea - and I moved to a wooden bench. Mystery solved. Without changing a thing, accuracy became 400% improved!

It's the "bounce" off the hard surface, to my mind. The wood doesn't have as sharp a cycle. Try it - results may vary .

Second thought - all of the shooting benches you showed, seem to have light spidery legs and bases. Personally, I'd build a far more solid base. The boat seats are great. You can buy a socket base to bolt down, and the commercially available shafts just pop into the socket. There even adjustable ahafts to place you at a comfortable position.

I already told you that you can use chains and turnbuckles to tension and folding members of your bench. It must be taught.

Another observation: a plastic folding table is about the worst thing you can shoot from. Let your competition use those! Haha.

Last thought. I can tell Pedro put some time into research and pics for this post. He got no responce for his effort. Question - when Pedro stops making posts, just as Cedric, Jerry, Julio, Kent, Neil, and others stopped making posts, due to lack of responce - will we have a better forum? Cause I can't put up something fascinating every day. I know the net is just a click away for you. But when you click, instead of participate - that leaves Rendezvous on life support. I've made over 7,500 posts. I've really put my heart into this forum project. I'm not asking for donations - just participation in your own chosen area of interest. Thanks.

Gary.

Hi Pedro
About 5 years ago I made this portable shooting bench:[www.airgunrendezvous.com]
It did a pretty good job but still had a bit of movement in it even when tensioned up. Less flimsy material would have solved that, as Gary points out above. It lasted me well but degraded a bit in the weather and now serves as the base for my bullet-casting set up. I now shoot from a solid Macrocarpa table.
Cheers
Neil

There is a definite balance between a solid table and one that can be portable. Make it as heavy as you can stand to carry.

Scott

Pedro,

Pulled this up from the Gear Shack: [www.airgunrendezvous.com]

We upgraded to an adjustable and padded seat but that's about it since new.

Thanks Jerry.

I forgot where that was. We have a Gear Shak? Neat.

(Standard Clarification I always post). I never ask people to come here "instead" of doing other things. I just express surprise that "after readers have already come here", they won't just say hello or participate. It's the threads that start off with 75 reads and not one peep from any of those 75 readers already here, that seem unreasonable. I'm not wondering why people didnt stay home from work, or from their kid's soccer game, to post. I'm wondering how 75 people saw something neat and not one said "Neat". So, just to be really clear - if your Great Grandfather misses landing his 760 on the Half Pipe ... Go ahead and treat his scrapes, and compound fractures. Post later. But if you've found yourself clicking around here for ten minutes - please grunt a "Yo", or drop in an appropriate Smilie from our Cornucopia of delightful fellows.

Gary

Seriously, a CORNUCOPIA of smilies!

A .... veritable Plethora! ..... Indeed.

I hadn't used that one yet, but back to work tomorrow...

Scott

Worked on the stock much of the day. Didnt show or discuss because honesty would have required that I chronicle the hunt for things, the three stooges routine of weldi g band saw blades, and the failure of the bandsaw blade tensioner. Since I'm quite certain people question the functionality of my lucky charm .... I neglected to photograph today's progress.

However; it did involve jig saws (plural), jig saw blades (many), bandsaws (3), bandsaw blades (5), a handheld power planer, a stationary planer, straight edges(3), and clamps.

On the JOB !!! YOWSAH!!!!

Gary

I think you picked the wrong smiley
or maybe this one
or possibly this one
or even this one

I just don't see how the smiling smiley can properly communicate a day like that.
I look forward to seeing the wood; but only because that is the only will you will show us the completed action.


Scott

Hi Scott,

Of course, you are right about the Smilie. However; it has been suggested that one finds an excessive degree of truth on the forum here. . You know - its like when someone asks, "how are you doing?" .... And you actually tell them! . . Medic!

Actually, Scott ..... In recognition of our appreciation ... I've decided to replace all of the action's parts with wood. . I expect it to be an instant hit!

I didn't even tell half of the stuff I did as regards that stock. The blank had "normalized" since cut. Therefore - for the extensive milling operations required - it was not straight enough. Before anyone suggests that it must now be defective - may I be the first to say that ALL blanks normalize, warp, twist, cup, invert, explode, and otherwise help you enjoy - WOOD. So; I planed a bit off the front of the forestock. Maybe ten ultra thin passes with a power hand held planer. I then did the same off the entire buttstock section. Turned it over, and hand held machine planned the midsection of that other side. I then ran it through the stationary planner. Many passes per side properly aligning the wood grain for direction.

Having done such- I have a straight stock blank. Yay.

Gotta go. Family duties wrapping up. Must go ...

Gary

Hello everyone,

Thanks for those postings. Those benches look great. I will post more soon, gathering tips from from various sites regarding benchrest using airguns.

Thanks again for the replies!

Pedro

I've been wanting to make one of these since I moved into the new house. Not sure how the wife is going to respond to my shuffling of house projects to make room for one of these babies! When I do get my release papers from the boss I'll be sure to post up some pictures of this project.

Pedrog maybe that's the answer...I'm not a good bench shooter because I haven't built an adequate bench from which to shoot! I have been using a folding plastic table for all my groups. No wonder I find my shooting stick to be just about a good.

Thanks,

Kent

Ah nutz! He read the part about the plastic table ... . Now I'll never have a chance at beating him ... . He already beats everybody off that plastic table. Bet we see a properly veneered bent wood version from the boat shop!

Gary

Wow! You mean there is someone out there that shoots better than you?

A long read... grab a cup of coffee or tea.

In my search for finding more techniques regarding airgun benchrest shooting I came across the following information. I am posting links to each website that I pulled content from to reveal the source. (I hope this is okay) I had wanted to write my own content but time is not allowing me to do so. I have edited a few pages for spelling and some grammar. Please note that information is only in regards to airguns and not powder-burners.

It is interesting to note that none of these shooters mention the importance of a sturdy bench.

Hope you find some tips useful.

Pedro

Air Gun Shooting Tips
[www.airgunclub.org]

Tip #1 - Trigger finger positioning

It is very important that every shooter checks the placement of their finger on the trigger. The finger should be placed in such a position that the shooter draws straight back. It is also very important that the shooter maintains the same position throughout their shooting. If the shooter moves their finger too far inward, they will be shooting more to the right. If they move their finger too far outward they will be shooting to the left. Although these shooting positions are minimal this will cause a shooter to loose critical points during a match. The next time you are out shooting, check this technique to see what you are doing and see if this improves your score.

Tip #2 - Breathing

It is very important to control your rate of breathing when shooting. Holding your breath is not an option. By holding your breath you are performing an unnatural function which causes you to lose focus on your aim. When you are shooting you should be squeezing your shot off halfway through an exhale. It is always good to take 3 or 4 deep breaths before picking up your gun to shoot. If you run out of breath you will tend to shoot high. If you are inhaling you will tend to shoot low.

Tip#3 - Shoes

It is very important that you wear the proper footwear to keep your feet in a comfortable lock position. House slippers or flip-flops are not recommended. By placing your feet firmly in one position it keeps your body from wandering or swaying. In actual competition, many shooters use a shooting boot or ski boot to hold them in position (we are not that good).

Tip#4 - Body alignment

This is an area most shooters overlook and it is highly important in their quest for higher scores. While you are setting up to shoot your match a shooter should:

1) aim at the target
2) close their eyes
3) turn their head to the right or left
4) open their eyes
5) close them again
6) return to where they are aiming at the target
7) If you’re aiming position has changed to the right or to the left move your feet in
the proper direction to compensate for this movement.
8) Repeat this procedure until you are on target


Hold Sensitivity and Benching

[www.network54.com]

Hold Sensitivity - Getting the most out of your spring gun
By Russ Best

(I have edited content for spelling and some grammer)

Many shooters using a spring gun for the first time complain they cannot get good groups with their guns. Rarely is this a problem with the gun. There have been many discussions amongst airgunners about Hold Sensitivity. What is hold sensitivity? What guns are hold sensitive? How do I deal with a hold sensitive rifle? What can be done to reduce hold sensitivity? Let’s look at a couple generalities, then get down to specifics.

Generally, guns that use pre-compressed gasses to develop power are not what we’d call hold sensitive. These include CO2, pump pneumatics and pre-charged pneumatics (PCP). Spring guns are nearly always more hold sensitive than the above mentioned types because of their recoiling nature. The moving mechanical mass jolts the gun when fired. Keeping the gun pointed at the desired target, while the pellet moves down the barrel is of utmost importance.

With a spring-powered gun, the shooter must develop a VERY consistent method of shooting. This method has been called the “Artillery Hold” by Tom Gaylord and the “Howitzer Hold by Larry Durham. No matter which name you choose, it amounts to pretty much the same style of shooting. Another term used in conjunction with these is “follow through”, which really has nothing to do with the way the gun is held prior to the trigger being pulled. Follow Through is what you do after the sear is released, and is only part of the Howitzer Hold technique. Basically, you have to continue to hold the trigger back after firing the shot. Do NOT let go of or ease off the trigger as soon as the sear breaks.

The technique itself involves having minimal contact with your gun while aiming and shooting. This means you don’t GRIP the forestock, but rather you let it just lay on top of your hand. The finger grooves and fancy checkering on spring airguns is more of a styling carryover from firearms, and doesn’t serve much purpose when firing a springer. This also means you rest your gun on your hand at the same point on the forestock every time. Champion airgunner Nick Jenkinson wrote an article on choosing the best contact point for your gun, finding that it’s usually located at some point ranging from 2 to 6 inches in front of your trigger guard. Wherever your “sweetspot” is, use it consistently. Changing from one contact point to another can alter your point of impact.

The next thing to watch is your grip on the rifles pistol grip. I rarely wrap my thumb around the grip, but instead- just barely touch the back of the pistol grip. Some shooters like to point their thumb up the back of the grip, thumb tip aiming at the end cap of the receiver tube. The fingers wrapping around the grip should just have very light contact with the gun. I generally only allow the two-centermost fingers to control the grip, more to keep the gun from leaning off the vertical plane than anything else.

Another important point is to just use the pad of your fingertip on the trigger. Don’t wrap the first finger joint around the trigger blade. When squeezing off the shot, apply no side pressure to the trigger blade - just ease it straight back towards the heel of your thumb. Don’t rush the shot either! If you move off target, stop pulling the trigger. Regain the bulls-eye and start over with the firing sequence.

Next is cheek contact with the stock. It should be very light. Don’t lay your face down on the comb of the stock. Touch your cheek to the same spot with each shot.

Pull the gun up to your shoulder, then relax the ‘pull-in’ pressure to the point where the butt is merely touching your shoulder. After you’ve learned all this, you still have to ‘follow through’ with your aim, once the gun is fired. Proper follow through involves keeping your eyes on the target, as best you can, while allowing the gun to float straight back in its’ recoil. If you cannot master this follow through, everything else you’ve done, no matter how perfect, will place your pellets where you DON’T want them.

Other techniques to help master a hold sensitive gun are breathing and adjusting your trigger properly—when possible. Just because a gun is hold sensitive doesn’t make it inaccurate! Many extremely accurate springers can be hold sensitive, but to be precise, a shooter MUST be CONSISTENT. Without mastering consistency, the most expensive spring gun is only as mediocre as it’s shooter.

Another way to reduce hold sensitivity is to get the gun professionally tuned. A good tune removes excessive recoil and vibration, and improves the guns shot to shot consistency. Improved groups are almost always the result. The gun is also less fatiguing to shoot.

Even when the shooter is doing everything just right, they have the feeling the gun should be shooting smaller groups. This is usually an indication of the guns preference for a certain style or weight of pellet. Many airguns are pellet sensitive, not just spring guns. The quickest way to find your guns pellet reference is to ask other owners who have the same gun and caliber what works well for them. Because each gun is an individual, you may still need to experiment with pellets of various weights and skirt sizes to determine what is truly the best for your own gun.

Springers require a certain amount finesse and experience before you can appreciate them. A shooter who is very good with a spring gun is usually an excellent firearms shot, but not necessarily vice versa.

Good Shooting, Russ

More Tips
[www.airgunone.com]

By C_A_P - Consummate Pelleteer – Airgunone Forum Member
(Edited for spelling)

You know there has been a lot of talk about hold and form. This gun is HOLD sensitive! That gun is HOLD sensitive! I am not buying into all of it. I have several guns that range from plinkers to SUPER MAGNUMS. Each one is shot identical in the way I hold it. I either have good form or every gun I own is not hold sensitive. Now don't get me wrong, each and every gun will have its own signature feel and shot cycle. But overall I have not had a rifle I cant get to shoot well. Some have better triggers that work to your advantage.

I have personally cut and un-choked many of my rifles too. I do agree that a choke can help a sub par shooter but its more for pellet selection ease of choice in my book.

Now before all the target shooters get fired up. I’m not referring to bench resting shooting. Bench shooting is a totally different animal. Chokes are needed for that last bit of accuracy. I shoot in an off hand standing up with NO trees and no braces. I let the gun rest lightly in my cupped hand and find its natural balance point and fire away. It’s not out of the ordinary for me to take game at 50+ yards free hand. I can hold 1/2 inch groups at 25 yards all day long, then its just steady hold at 50. How I get the best out of every gun is the set up

I set the scope up by closing my eyes with the scope in the mounts and bring the gun up to shooting position. I assume my balance point and then open them to see where the scope is. If it needs to be adjusted for eye relief, do it now, and try again until its dead on. Then tighten it down. This will give you the exact balance point for that gun. It then is second hand nature when drawing the weapon up to your shoulder. Hunting is all about repeated learned muscle motions.

After that get a few pellets that you like and shoot a 5 of them. Do not concern your self where they hit you are just looking for groups. See which ones group the best then go about adjusting your scope. I try and optically center most of my scopes if possible. Some guns like certain pellets some do not. I have had two of the exact same guns that hated the same pellets. Like polar opposite twins. Look exact but act 180 degree different. So be it, find the pellet that groups well in that gun and shoot it.

Too many people fall for the pellet marketing game. Paying $15 for a tin of plastic pointed tip pellets that do nothing more than a good round nose one. ITS SHOT PLACEMENT! If you are depending on your pellet to make up the damage for a poor shot you better stay home.

Round nose pellets are going to give the best accuracy usually as they do not plane or wane from a pointed tip being a tad off dead center. However; I have shot several animals with pointed and poly-tipped pellets. Pointed tend to blow throw faster. If it’s a head shot who cares. The poly-tipped or hollow points tend to expand if you have a Magnum class rifle. This can be fun as they do A LOT of damage with a good hit. These pellets need some power to get them to open up on impact. Yes they do damage and create a huge wound canal. However a poor shot is a poor shot. I have had fly offs or run away's with every pellet.

Holding techniques.

1. Light grip, like they say with golf. Hold it like your holding a rabbit. Do not squeeze the gun.

2.Use a open cupped palm to REST the gun in not HOLD the gun.

3. Relax all muscles in your arms and back and neck. You should not be uncomfortable in a drawn stance. If so re adjust the scope or add but pads. The gun should feel like an extension of you!

4. Find an aiming method. Some draw the crosshairs down on target and some draw them up. Take a deep breath, relax, aim and PULL the trigger, do not pluck at the trigger as this will cause terrible groups.

5. Hold the shot. DO NOT LOOK FOR THE HIT. Springers need time to get the pellet clear. If you hit the game you will hear it and watch it fall.

6. Shoot at live game. You can paper punch all day but live game is MUCH different. It’s more difficult as its moving and there is no dot to aim at.


Here are a few tips when setting up a new gun.


Air Rifle Shooting Technique & Setup

1. If you can open it up and de bur and properly lube and inspect seals. Many guns come from the factory dry or with damaged seals. If not get someone who is QUALIFIED to do this. There are many so called tuners out there so be careful and tell the tuner EXACTLY what you want to get. Its your money and you should get what you want not what he wants.

2. BUY a GOOD AIR GUN SCOPE (Without this you’re wasting your time) Mount the scope, as I stated using the blind drawing method. This is a good time to optically center your scope, that is counting the total number of turns on each turret and dividing that by 2 and clicking back to that 1/2 point centering both the right to left and up and down on the cross hairs. This gives the best use of a scope. It will tell you right away if you need any special mounts to compensate for DROOP.

3. Shoot a 5 shot string at a big piece of paper with a 1 inch black dot on it from 10 yards. See where it groups with each pellet. Remember you are just looking for groups. Resist the urge to adjust the scope. Adjustments at 10 will be way off at 25 where you want to be dead on.

After you get the pellet that groups the best bring the right and left adjustment to center on the scope. This will be close to where it will stay. After that adjust the up and down until you are 1 inch low at 10 yards.

4. Move back to 25 yards and shoot a 5 shot group. Adjustments on the scope at 25 will be very minute compared to 10 where you may have had to make bigger ones. If you did all the steps chances are that at 25 you will be real close and only have to tweak the up and down a tad.

Most guns that are 900 fps will be dead on at 25 this way and again at 50 as the pellet hits its apex and is on its way down. Now all you have to do is hold usually a mil dot high at 10 or past 50. I have several guns that are 75 accurate with this technique. Bigger calibers and heavier pellets help with down range wind drift but this will get you close.

Remember to get out in the woods and shoot well and shoot often.


Airgun Warehouse - Series on Benchrest
[airgunwarehouse.co.za]

- Articles in PDF format

Loads of good reading, thanks much for posting this. Thanks for taking the time to put all this together!

Sal,

Thanks for the comment. Hope others read it as well. Would like to hear back if anyone found it useful.

Pedro

That's probably the best compilation of airgun-shooting accuracy tips I've ever seen. Thanks a lot for collecting and posting them!