The stocks underway. Walnut this time. I think this pc. will have some good light from within.



The cheek pc. in place. The stock will slide in under this area. The cheek pc. itself, is carved from a section of weathered Elk stag. It's been cleaned, machined, inlaid in a subtle pattern of scrolls, then ground and polished.



The carved tube that carries the cheek pc. It's been textured to give the eye something to do. It's role is as a "background singer" to the Elk Stag Solo performer.



You get the idea. It's coming along, with a bunch of other work. The venelated recoil pad will abut the carved sleeve. That machine screw is recessed when in place.

Gary



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/10/2010 08:24PM by barnespneumatic.

Oh man is that looking good! I can't understand why you want to cover it all with bedliner!

I was so hoping to be able to shoot again this weekend but life has got in the way. I even have three different adapters ready for the holographic sight and a regular set of rings for the big scope. I expect I'll get another set of Barret rings for the scope and long range shooting.

I can't wait to see the gun again, it's like missing a baby! The pictures are great but these guns are really much morew impressive in the flesh when you can really examine every little detail.

I guess I better order some more lead!

Glad you like it.

Please shave before shooting each time, to maintain the cheekpc. luster. hahah.

Did I ever tell you that I discovered how to make a perfectly spherical cherry to make a round ball mold? I'd never been able to noodle it out previously. And then, the other day, there it was. I was working in the shop, and ... realized the channel had been switched on me ... and I could no longer see what I'd been working on ... but there was this floating/rotating cherry mill cutter for a round ball mold in front of my nose.

So; those who wish ball that are not commonly made for Barnes guns, I have the ability when God grants the time.

OK ... back to the shop. Glad you like it.

Gary

I'm worried about your visions...

Hi Jerry,

Guess I should just shut up about all that .... huh?

Nobody would believe how my brain works anyway. Better just to claim I .... ahhhhh .... saw it on Oprah ...

Gary

Yeah, you might want to keep the vision thing quiet, at least until the current administration figures out it can't tax vision or creativity...

Of course, if you have any visual epiphanies about me and that certain someone...I expect all the details!

Hi Garry and All,I've made several Ball moulds(some woked out better than others).Rather than make a spherical mill bitt I Profile ground a tool to the correct radius.I set one half of the mould block up in the four jaw offset so as the final half sphere finnished about .030'' from what would be the top of the mould.Prior to this I turned a piece of Alluminium to the finnish OD to use as a guide(when it just entered the cavity I had the correct diameter) the depth I simply read off.With depth and width achieved I zero'd the dials and did the same with the other half of the mould block.Now with two halves machined I part of a section of the guide which I had turned earlier but would machine the radius on the section before it was fully parted off.This section I placed in one of the half sphere and then place the other half of the mould block on so as they lined up perfectly'Only then do I drill the alignment pins.Alignment pins in and the whole lot squared off in the four jaw and an oppropriate sized hole drilled into the spherical cavity the face is turned off until the desired sprue is achieved.Only good for single cavity moulds or a one off Ball mould.Most of the ball moulds I've made have been well within industry standards ,some have even been within .001'' of round.Your Idea of making a spherical Bitt sounds like a much smarter way of doing it, especialy if you want several cavities or are likely to make other moulds the same.Should'nt be a problem to a man of your tallents Garry.Danny.

Nice work, Gary.

You know, Jerry's comment re: rings and holographics sights etc. has gotten me thinking again about something I've been pondering lately. Seems these very high-power big bores all (understandably) have a fair amount of recoil, which may prohibit them from being used with scopes with even reasonable eye relief in some cases. I wonder if it's possible to have a "floating" scope rail of some sort, which allows the action to recoil separately from the optic platform? Not sure how such an item would work, or allow such movement while still allowing the shooter to consistently sight targets etc. . . . but just thinking out loud. I'd love to be able to mount whatever glass I wanted on these beasts to take full advantage of their accuracy.

Hey, I'm taking the MD Hunters Safety course starting tonight! It's required for me to get my range badge at the gun club I recently joined.

-- Jim

I don't know Jim,

My instinct would be to say that the tolerances would be absurd, to maintain accuracy.

There's not an issue so long as the optics are matched to the specs. of the gun. You don't build custom guns so a specific scope, or any random scope could find a home there. We only experienced an issue on the first Yukon 62 shoot because I'd proofed it in the shop at 5pm, and we had it at the field at 5:30 pm ... with a scope I'd grabbed off the rack.

Gary

Unertal , Redfield, and I'm sure several other companies made scopes for many years that had no internal adjustments other than focus. They accomplished this by making the mounts adjustable. The scope was suspended in the middle of the rings by springs. They worked very well and were all but impossible to knock off zero. They were used by our military snipers up into the vietnam war. Cool scopes that were long and skinny with big objectives. You can grab the scope and move it all around but it snaps right back to zero when you let go.

Hello Joe,

Yes - those are neat. I'm going to make a version of that on a long tube sight one day - for a project.

However; I think Jim was asking about some mechanism that would allow the gun to recoil back, and hold the scope forward. The goal being to avoid getting "scoped" by the recoiling scope eyepc. I'm sure it's possible some way ... but I know enough about machinery to know that the tolerances of sliding surfaces over one another, that are to return to perfect zero, with no cant whatsoever ... not in my shop.

Now - there have been guns made with barrels that retract within the gun frame. In fact ... my professional number 2 rifle project had such a barrel. But, I decided not to pursue the concept in very high power guns. There are many things that "CAN" be done. But ... CAN they be paid for? Or are they just another hoop someone would enjoy watching you jump thru. I get "suggestions" constantly.

Best,
Gary

I hear you Gary, the only cure I know of for scope eye is to make sure the stock is snug in your shoulder and use a scope that allows for plenty of eye relief, not cheap, even then in some shooting positions you can be got if your not careful.

Was talking to the intended owner of the Barracuda. We discussed a Holographic sight. Seems like it might be a good match. Endless eye relief. Some of them have a one MOA dot too.

Gary

I'm jealous. db

Me too. You don't know how much I would enjoy having one.



Gary